Carrageen Conserve - Rhubarb and Blackberry low sugar jam

Served here with goats cheese and crusty bread

Sugar in Jam does two things, it preserves and it gels.

I am not one that worries too much about food intake, sugars, fats etc. but I was so shocked at the amount of sugar that goes into a preserve even I knew that had to be bad for you

But in my attempt to reduce the sugar content of the jam I decided to give this a go. Its an experiment.
How it turns out in terms of shelf life I have no idea, but I am fairly confident that it should last at least 4 months after proper waterbath processing.

Something we have in abundance all along the shore of the Island is Carageen moss.
This is a natural gelatin. It free and available, so I decided to go with that.

Adding carageen to the mix will force it to gel, so that is one aspect of sugars contribution.
Rememember - when you pick carrigeen, put it on the draining board and pour boiling water over it before you dry it.

Pectin will also do the same thing, this can be bought in stores or you can make it at home.
The rcipe for that is later on

The less ripe the fruit, the more natral pectin, so I went with about 10% of unripe (red or green) blackberries

In a recipe for carrot jam (which will come later) Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management 1861, she added brandy at a ratio of 1 tsp per pound of mix to a preserve to make sure it would remain good for months. The alcohol, just another sugar really, in her recipie is what keeps the preserve.

The obvious problem is with its low boiling point, the alcohol cannot be added durning the cooking process, so it goes in at the last possible moment - just after filling up the jar before the lid and liner go on.

So, I decided to do a Blackberry and rhubarb jam, but reduce the sugar content drasticly, to half the normal ratio. Its still a lot of sugar, but at least it is a start.

As far as I know, looking on the net, this is the first time someones written about making a conserve in this way, so I am a little proud of that - Delaney must have inspired me.




750gm sliced rhubarb
500gm Blackberries (at least 50 gm underripe)
150 gm cooking apple peeled and chopped
(total fruits 1.4kg)
600ml water
3tsp lemon juice
100 gm Demerera
100 gm Rich dark brown
400 gm White sugar
75 gm honey
25 gm Carrageen (a.k.a Irish Moss)

1 tsp brandy per jar filled

(or any other strong drink with a volume of about 40% volume/80% proof e.g. slivovitz, rum, whiskey, vodka, gin, you know what you like)

Put the sugar, water, honey, apple, lemon juice and honey to a large pot, mix, bring to the boil.

Reduce heat and let it simmer on a low heat to reduce.

Soak carrigeen in cold water in warm water for 15 minutes, squeeze out excess water and add to the pot.

Now, because of the reduction in sugar this needs to be reduced more than normal, your looking at 30% reduction at least. Because of the energy requirement I just did it very slowly on the Morso, so timing will differ.

When the mix has reduced do the gel test.

Some people like to remove seeds, carageen bits etc. using a cheesecloth or jam strainer, but you should be able to fish out the carigeen f you dont want it, I left mine in.

But if you want to strain out bits, hit the mix with a handblender first

After filling to the mark add a teaspoon of alcohol - (the mark is just below the thread - take a look at any full commercial jar for an indication, thats where the fill should end

Dont forget to leave headspace in the jar.

bottle and water bath as per instructions in previous posting.

Store in a cool, dry dark place.

If waterbath is done properly, I estimate a shelf life of at least 3 months -

probably about 6 months I would say.

I ended up with a mix that was just a little too runny, but next time out I will just keep reducing a little longer and increase the amount of under-ripe fruit - maybe just a little more sugarthat should solve the problem.

I would really like it if others that gave this a shot gave me feedback on their results, that would be great

The mixture sets reasonably well, and is very sweet already, tastes divine.

It is just that little bit different because of the seaweed, so I think that by a few minor adjustments we may be on to something.

Mr Spider owns this one

Delaney's dual delivery

I have a good lifelong friend, Mikey, to whom I mentioned one evening that I needed something to keep the furze on the farm down.
He said he might have an idea.
I thought nothing of it until the next day with a hell of a headache I was woken by what sounded like the gates of an old testament Hell being ripped asunder.
Actually, the din described by Dante would not have begun to have the same effect on me.

I don't know if readers have ever heard an Ass' roar at point blank range, but Shock and Awe do not even begin to describe its effects.

Mikey had a fairly surprising solution to my problem, and his as it turns out.
His problem was a young jack who was surplus to Mikey's Donkey requirements.

Deciding to kill two birds with one stone (and nearly killing me in the process) Mikey had delivered Delaney to my doorstep.
Delaney is named after a childrens song and a horse called Fr. Delaney (coincidentally the name of the local parish priest here years ago)

After my eardrums stopped reverberating like bass speakers I decided - for want of a better expression - not to look a gift horse in the mouth.

I walked Delaney, who was easy to handle because of a beautiful old bridle he had, down the farm to see his new home.
Released through a gate he seemed pleased and also seemed to get on with the cattle that a neighbour grazes there occasionally.

That evening he seemed content, but I did find out he does not like cabbage.

The next morning, despite the departure of his bovine field mates he seemed happy enough.
That evening when I got home I went down to see him.
Delaney had deserted the farm.

Enquiries of an equine nature the next morning started to explain the sudden Donkey departure.

A neighbour, Con, informed me he had seen Delaney the previous evening in a flight to freedom, racing down the road at a speed that would give Sea the Stars a run for his money, ears pinned back, a smile on his face and an occasional backward glance.

But I located the absconding Ass.

He was staying at a neighbouring farm, a real one, about half a mile away, run by two expert Stockmen.
The two brothers, Tom and Paudie, are really brilliant with farm animals.
They had no problem letting Delaney stay and advised me to leave him there a few days to settle down.
During his dash to freedom,Delaney was diverted by an aptly named young L-ass.

He was safe there and had the company of other Donkeys, in particular Delilah, a jill, who had become the object of Delaney's affections.

Delaney's field and board cost me several of my prized Tipperary turnips, pickles and a few jams.

They felt that if Delaney was lonely he would wander, and very kindly decided that Delilah would stay on our farm to keep him company.

I went over this morning as instructed and Tom got the two new best friends ready.

I was really impressed by the way he could handle the animals, taking a simple rope and tying up a bridle for Delilah in seconds.
Delaney has lost his, probably an antique, so we are still looking for that.

Tom assured me that Delaney would follow me and Delilah home and he did in his own way - the scenic route.
I had to tie Delilah to telephone poles and go down every boreen to get Delaney back on the road.
Much to the amusement of every house on the road and the photo opportunity to half the tourists in Connemara the half mile walk feels like it took at least an hour as Delaney inspected every side road and flower garden en route.
Con's loud encouragement to Delaney to 'run boy, run' was an added distraction.

Finally I stooped being a traffic hazard and delivered him - for a second time - to his new home with his new friend Delilah.

I'm not quite sure what I have let myself in for, but it seems like it is going to be interesting, One thing I am sure of is that in future I will be careful when speaking to Mikey, and if he ever reads this, mate, a petrol strimmer may have been a quieter solution. I am also sure at this stage Niall and Caroline who I believe read this blog on a regular bases are on the floor in tears laughing at my assinine adventures.

But whatever I say about strimmers, Delaney is a dote, as is Delilah.

I just hope the two stay put there will be no more meandering Mule or deserting Donkey stories from this blog

Even in a time of recession, a young couple make a start in a new home

Rusheen Rhubarb and Blackberry Preserve

The first of the Jam recipes. This is the first jam I have made myself. I think the last time I even helped make for that matter, was 1984! My Grandmother made it, as did my mother, but with boarding school, work and other things I have not had anything to do with it since.

Blackberries are coming into season now, a lot of readers who aim for even a little self suficiency have been emailing.
So, my advice would be now is the time to start building up a winter larder - make hay while the sun shines so the saying goes.

A few hours picking, a bit of bartering and a little imagination gives months of satisfaction and good home made food.

just an excuse to show off the new Kilner jars on the right

My neighbour Judah was a great friend of my Gran. She has fantastic rhubarb plants. They must have been established back in the 1890's and whatever variety they are, they are delicious.
When we get a gift of them in early spring each year, they have no stringiness and make great crumble.
I cant wait to get a few crowns for transplant come November.

We save on bin charges here in a very easy way. What ever food waste we have the cats don't want goes to Judah's chickens, and we get eggs - pretty fair deal.
And trust me - you will never get a shop bought egg as good as something fresh off a farm. Just boiled and served with soda bread is a breakfast fit for an emperor, never mind a king.

So I decided the first batch should be something for her.

Even in this first attempt I am determined to reduce the amount of sugar, I used a little honey (10%) in place of sugar

Another tip is to use a small percentage, say about 10%, of under ripe berries, also helps the jam to set.
And even with the sugar reduction it worked out fine.
For the standard procedure in preserve making, please see the production made easy posting.

Ingredients.
250 grm. Rhubarb, sliced thinly
200 grm Blackberries, washed, steeped in slightly salty cold water for an hour (to knock off any little nasties) then rinsed
200 grm granulated white sugar
150 grm granulated Demerera sugar
50 grm rich dark sugar
50 grm honey
1 Tsp lemon juice
150 ml water

This will yield about 500ml of preserve

Dude, You cookin'?

Preserve production made easy

Its jam, but preserve sounds posher. Anyway, I am getting glutted by blackberries out here, a nice complaint to have this time of year
What really horrifies me about jam is the sheer volume of sugar that goes into the mix in most recipes, so I will be experimenting with honey, apples and other variants in the near future. I have what I think is a pretty good idea, but I'd better prove the concept first.

This is the first jam I have made myself. I think the last time I even helped make for that matter, was 1984! My Grandmother made it, as did my mother, but with boarding school, work and other things I have not had anything to do with it since.

What strikes me about fruit preserves is that it is all about ratios.
It is the one thing apart from cake baking that does require a good set of scales, most things I cook are done by smell, taste and feel as opposed to measures, I take them as advice.
When I post recipes detailing measures, I work it out as I go along to make it easier for readers of this blog.

For regular readers as with the Malt and Mustard pickle, this posting will be the basic one on fruit preserves.

In the case of jam it is a pretty much exact science. In essence it is sugar, fruit and water that are reduced, loaded into sterile containers and waterbath sealed.

The basic ratio for preserves is as follows
3 parts fruit
3 parts sugar
1 part water

That is the basic advice, but again, I will be working on a lower sugar content in future.

After the ingredients are combined and reduced it is then a question of judging when the blend is ready to gel, if it is at set point.

This is not all that hard.

Get two small side plates and put them in the fridge. There are a range of jam thermometers etc - but the plates are already in the house and are just as good.

Take a shop bought jam or marmalade and spread out a spoonful of the jelly part of the jam on a plate - this is the consistency you are aiming for.

The reason to use two plates is that when sampling, you will always have one and hand that is clean, cold and  available.

As you approach the set point you will need to check every few minutes

When you have reduced your jam, mix it - get it as even as possible in terms of the fruit blend as possible, I use a whisk to do this this.

Using a small spoon, take out a sample and spread it on the cold plate.

Wait at least two minutes to let the sample cool to a normal temperature on the plate, check to see if it looks right. turn the plate to its side, it should cling on fairly well - no harm if it runs a little.

This sample was solid, and gelled well

Some people can tell looking at the back of a cool spoon, but while waiting for the plate sample to cool I check the whisk to see did the jam cling, did it set, or does it drip.

When it looks right and acts right then it is right.

Sterility is key to a good preserve or pickle.

First thing I do is boil the jar for 10 minutes in the waterbath with their lids.

A waterbath is simply a large pot with boiling water you can fit the closed jars into and cover

note lid on bottom

As you get ready to pour the jam, move the glass jars to an oven.
The lids remain boiling in the waterbath.

Turn the oven heat to 110 degrees centigrade
By the time the oven reaches this temperature, the jars will be dry and sterile.

Decant the jam into the hot sterile jars, always be mindful and act sensibly, use oven gloves or kitchen towels at all times when handling hot glass.

After loading into the sterile jars, make sure the lip and threads are spotlessly clean.
Give them a good wipe with kitchen towel.
Use wax paper or clingfilm over the jar to create a barrier between the lid and the jam.

At the last moment, remove the lid from the boiling waterbath
Put the sterilised lid on hand tight and waterbath for ten minutes.
Remove the jar sealed jar from the waterbath and store in a cool dry dark place.
It should keep for about 6 - 8 months.
If you can, try to hang on to old jars with the pop-top / anti tamper type lid (the one with the tin nipple)

If you have followed the procedure correctly, this should depress into the safe position as the jar cools, giving a secure air tight seal.

Its actually a really nice sound to hear them click and ping into position as the jar cools, sound of a good seal and a job well done.

A NOTE ON SUGAR

Part of the concept of the garden plot is the reduction of food miles. I was going to urge the use of Irish products i.e. Siucra or Gem, but now would advise Fair Trade brands
Sadly, no sugar has been produced in Ireland since 2005, so its hardly guaranteed Irish, but the brand name is.





That means we have no idea where the sugar or its beet or cane comes from originally. I don't even know if it is GM free.

The Irish Sugar Company/Greencore sold their Sugar business overseen by Tainiste Mary Coughlan, who was at the time Minister for Agriculture, to Nordzucker in Germany. The sale closed the last remaining sugar production companies in Ireland. This also means that in the future, due to short sightedness, we are way behind if there is ever to be sugarbeet ethanol production.

The Siucra brand is up to 30 cent dearer than other imported brands and more than likely all the sugar is coming out of the same packer. Hence my advice to go with fairtrade. At least that way you will have an idea as to where and by whom the product is made.

The Irish Shopper is being fooled to pay extra for a trusted Irish brand name that sadly has no links to the country.

Its a very good example of what Naomi Klein wrote about in her book No Logo. It is the brand itself that is important, regardless of its production methods, location, economic benefit or inherent value, the item itself means very little, be it a product or person.

Greencore and Nordzucker kept the deal as quiet as they could so as not to draw notice to the change as many people believe the brand Siucra is still Irish.

There is also the factor that many of the big UK sugar companies started out in the 17th century using slaves on Caribbean plantations, so I'd rather not reward the inheritance of that shameful legacy.

Random cats to end on a happy note

10 step Creamed Tipperary Turnip and Lemon Soup

An economic and versatile dish that can be served warm in winter or cold like a gazpacho as a summer starter.
Just make it a little thinner (i.e. less veg or more stock and milk) for the cold summer version.
Makes a lovely lunch, super supper or a winner of a dinner (sorry, I must have been a frustrated sub editor in a former life)

Ingredients

2 tbls margarine or unsalted butter
600 grm diced turnips peeled
400 grm  diced potatoes peeled
150 grm finely chopped fresh chives or green onion tops
900 ml  vegetable stock
700 ml  milk
2 tsp Akita - root parsely if available
1 tsp sea salt
Zest and juice from half a lemon

To Garnish
Option 1
2 Tbls Olive oil, 1 tsp Paprika, 1 Tbls chopped fresh parsley
Option 2
3 Tbls Sourcream, 1 tsp Lemonjuice, 1Tbls chopped chives
Method

1.Melt butter in a heavy bottomed pan

2.Add diced turnips, and saute over low heat for about 5-10 minutes or until softened, depends on the size.

3.Add potatoes, stir to coat with butter, then add chives, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring so that vegetables
 do not burn. If you don't stir, the spuds will burn.

4.Add veg stock, cover, and bring to a boil, Add lemon zest and salt - reduce heat

5.Then lower heat, and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes or until soft enough to puree.

6.Puree vegetable mixture with the milk by hand or in a blender

7.Remove from heat. Stir in the lemon juice and most of chopped parsley, allow to infuse for 2 mins

8. Put Paprika into olive oil and whisk a little

9. Swirl in the olive oil and paprika mix (you could use the sourcream/lemonjuice/chives option instead) garnish with a little parsley

10. Serve with some soda bread and wallow in the adoration of friends and family

To Serve Cold: transfer puree to a large bowl, stir in remaining ingredients and chill for several hours.
garnish and serve.

======
It looks great as a dish. The usual is to serve with a sour cream whirl, but I found the swirl of red in Caldo Verde so appealing, and different, I decided to go with that - and it really adds to the meal in favour and in style.

The Turnip used in this was the Tipperary Turnip from Irish Seedsavers. This has proved to be a hardy, and very tasty variety.
Everyone who has tried it loves it, and older people remark on the peppery flavour that you don't get in modern varieties.

I also found it is a very, very hardy and insect resistant plant in comparison with western perfection suede. The Suedes took a bit of a hammering from caterpillars, slugs et al whereas the Tipp turnip required less attention and was nowhere near as susceptible

The Akita root parsley is an eastern European favorite I picked up from the real seed catalogue in the UK, a great new addition to their phenomenal range of unusual crops.
Both the leaf and root have a really rich, deep parsley flavour that brings the herb into a new dimension.
A realy good discovery.
Speaking of Caldo Verde, with space clearing in the garden I am looking forward to planting winter kale that I got from seedaholic up in Mayo - in particular the Cavolo Nero - a stunning black variety and they also threw in a dwarf blue type that I am looking forward to growing

I think it is great that with the right seeds and planning, a kitchen garden is not just a summer salad patch - but a year round resource.

I hope readers will give it a go, and please feel free to comment.

Time to feature Vladimira